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Monday, August 5, 2013

Dry-fly fishing - Kola Peninsula

 Russian Brown Trout



In the beginning of August this year, my father and I were invited by a Norwegian friend to fish with them in one of the most remote fly fishing destinations on the planet, the Kharlovka river on the Kola Peninsula in Northern Russia for the fabled River Browns on Dry fly.



"Land of the Midnight Sun"

The rivers meander through a desolate tundra that is situated on the northern coast of Russia, within the Arctic Circle. A multitude of rivers flow into the sea from the peninsula. During high summer, the sun does not actually set, it dips below the horizon for about an hour at midnight then rises again. It’s incredible to watch the sun rising at 2am over the small river, splashing the sky in an array of magnificent shades of orange as a massive mayfly hatch makes the river come alive with rising brown trout.




"Getting There"

After clearing the South African customs and being un-apologetically relieved of a bottle of ‘lethal’ shampoo, we took off in the mighty Airbus A380 en-route to Frankfurt. After landing we managed to navigate the massive airport and board our connecting flight to Oslo. From there we had a scenic flight in a small Dash 8 over the beautiful Fjords and mountains to Kirkiness, a tiny city in the northern reaches of the country.
We met up with the rest of the group and from there a minibus transported us through the lush pine forests to the border of Russia and Norway. This is where things can get a little hairy for us South Africans. Upon seeing the unfamiliar green passports, suspicion overcame the border guards and many phone calls were made while sniffer dogs got to work on our bags, thankfully the precious biltong was in vacuum sealed bags stuffed inside our wading boots and went by un-detected. An hour and a half later my dad and I were finally declared "safe" and without a hint of explanation as to the lengthy process, a dismissive nod was our que to cross into Russia.



The stark contrast between the two countries becomes glaringly apparent as the border is cleared. Military security near the border of Russia is obscenely dense, every checkpoint we passed was marked by another paranoid guard that checked and re-checked all our passports. As we travelled further north we passed military operating bases that were built during the Second World War and were used during the Cold war. Soldiers could be seen marching the streets and the occasional armoured vehicle would rumble past, an ominous reminder of the tensions between the great Superpowers.
We spent the night at a hotel in Murmansk, the largest city on the peninsula and had vast amounts of delicious Sushi that, thanks to the strength of the rand relative to the Russian Rouble, was very affordable. The city itself was once magnificent, with ornately crafted marble pillars adorning the walls of the once beautiful hotels. Since the fall of the Soviet Union, the city’s importance as a strategic stronghold has waned and many buildings stand neglected and crumbling.

The next morning we arrived at the airfield and were greeted by the sight of our taxi for the trip to the rivers where we would be fishing. An enormous Russian MI-8 twin turbine helicopter was waiting for us. Once the giant chopper was fully fueled and packed with all our gear, we took off in a roar of wind and flew very low all the way to our first camp called Wulf’s Lear, which was renowned for two things, it was a terrible campsite with large boulders interspersed with swampy mud, and boasted great fishing with both size and numbers of trout.


"The Rivers"

There are two rivers available to fly fishermen, the Kharlovka and the Litza. The season only lasts 9 weeks during the year and in that time the different camps on the rivers (which are spread very far apart) can only be fished a maximum of 4 times in the season for 3-4 days at a time. This means that fishing pressure is virtually nonexistent. Catch and release is practiced extensively and the guide ensures that only barbless hooks are used.



Sustainable fly fishing and preservation is emphasized by the Kharlovka Company and a 'leave nothing behind' attitude is adopted at the camps. All our gear was also thoroughly dis-infected to prevent the spread of foreign plant matter and disease. The Kharlovka River protection program is the most extensive river protection program ever undertaken in Europe with regular foot, snow-mobile and helicopter patrols and an advanced communication system covering over 70 000 hectares. Being the last remaining ‘pure’ Tundra in Europe, it is a precious national asset for Russia.




"The Fishing"

Anglers are dropped off by the helicopter and are provided with tents, food for a week and a guide. Igor was our guide for the duration of the trip and he doubled as a chef with a particular affinity for hearty soup which we very much appreciated as the temperature in the Arctic Circle can get a little chilly.
The Kharlovka River is about as wide as the Vaal with a similar flow rate. Visibility was around 4 feet and the water temperature was 11'c, perfect for the resident Brown trout. Fishing with nymphs and streamer patterns is possible but the fish are so receptive to dry flies that this was the predominant method used during the trip.




Fish activity was determined by the various hatches that would sporadically occur seemingly randomly during the day and night. The one very predictable hatch was at 11pm every evening, a massive hatch of Caddis would dominate the trout's attention for a few hours. This event was eagerly awaited by the anglers. The size of the caddis varied, but as with most things in Russia, they tended to be enormous, the ‘grande’ caddis were around 4cm long and resembled large moths. The size of the adult mayflies were also disproportionately large.




Fly selection is reasonably simple, find the largest commercially tied Caddis patterns and tie a larger size. Skating Caddis, Goddard’s and stimulators in #6 and #4 were perfect, with a dark mustard body and accentuated wings being the main triggers. A dead drift behind a protruding rock would sometimes produce a violent slashing strike typical to trout feeding on the adult caddis flies. Striking was quite difficult to master as you have to wait for the trout to eat the fly, then turn down before gently lifting the rod to set the hook. This was much easier said than done after witnessing a giant trout engulf your fly on the surface. Interestingly, flies tied on circle hooks very extremely effective and all the trout were hooked perfectly in the scissors while using them.




Sight fishing to a steadily rising fish was very rewarding but could be very frustrating as you could go through two boxes of your most carefully tied flies only for them to be utterly ignored. Unlike the trout in South Africa which are generally opportunistic, these trout tended to focus in on a certain size and colour of Caddis or Mayfly and would refuse anything that doesn't match the natural or had the slightest drag on the fly.
One such a frustrating fish had me scaling down tippet material and fly size one morning at around 2am. I had spotted it steadily rising behind a large boulder, feeding on emerging mayflies that were a
dark bluish colour and I was having trouble matching the hatch, I could see the fish and it was clearly very large. After about 5 fly changes, I tied on a #16 Klinkhammer with a shuck of clear plastic and cast a few feet ahead of the boulder. As the fly passed the fish it gently sipped the fly from the surface film and I set the hook by gently lifting the rod after subduing the impulse of performing an ESPN Bassmaster classic strike on the trout.




Chaos ensued as the line was wrenched taut and the fish exploded out of the water, then shot upstream at a rate of knots as I frantically attempted to clear the flyline that had conveniently wrapped itself around my left thigh. I managed to free the line and the backing knot flew through the guides. Thankfully the fish turned away from the rapids and had settled down in a large pool. After a brief struggle with another couple of blistering runs into the backing and a heart-stopping encounter with a submerged branch, I finally managed to slip the net over a magnificent 13lb brown trout. After a quick photo-shoot she swam away strongly into the icy cold river, leaving behind an elated frozen angler.




We fished Wulfs Lear for three days and packed up camp to be taken to the ‘Swan Isles’ on the Litza river, a beautiful camp with extensive islands jutting out of the main river, where we would spend the remaining four days. The Mi-8 landed virtually on top of us and the burly pilot oversaw the loading of the gear. Thankfully they had brought more coffee, vodka and Sausages from the main camp, which seemed to be our staple diet. When he was satisfied we were off once again and made the scenic flight over a multitude of lakes and rivers to the Litza river.




We could see the difference between the two rivers immediately after landing. Litza is a smaller river, perhaps half as wide as the Kharlovka and twice as clear. The trout do not get as big as those in the Kharlovka but they are far more plentiful. It was spectacular to see a trout violently attack your over-sized caddis after spotting and stalking it. One of the most effective flies was a supersized Royal Coachman with two massive white wings, affectionately known as ‘the seagull.’


“Routine”

The routine is fairly relaxed and every angler can do as little or as much fishing as they desire. Breakfast comprised of bacon, eggs and sausages. A morning session would generally follow and Igor would pack a generous lunch pack for the guys who enjoyed hiking and exploring the river by day. Dinner is generally a stew or a soup with veggies and beef, hardly luxury cuisine but very satisfying after a long day of hiking and fishing. A mandatory round of potent Russian Vodka would follow every evening while watching the extended sunset. It was during one of these evenings that we saw a small herd of Reindeer swimming across the river and through the home-pool.




"Gear"

Stillwater trout gear should suffice with 5wt 9ft rods being ideal and a 6/7wt becomes useful if the wind starts pumping. A slightly softer rod is nice to protect lighter tippets from the excessive headshaking that seems to be typical of a brown trout.
Floating lines were used exclusively, the river is not particularly deep and most of the fishing was done in knee to waist deep water.




Vital equipment includes a good quality artic (-5’c) sleeping bag and an inflatable mattress, a small pillow and many layers of thermal underwear. Good quality polar fleece jerseys and weatherproof jackets are critical. Useful accessories include a bottle of fly floatant gel and some good quality mosquito repellent. A buff was also a lifesaver when the mayfly hatches were particularly thick.




Leaders depended on the clarity of the water and the structure of the river section you were fishing. In the flat sections without significant structure, some guys opted for the lighter 5-6lb ranges. We had a couple of the bigger fish breaking a 12lb leader on the initial run. A safe bet was a standard 9ft section of 13lb leader attached to another 9-12ft of 10lb fluorocarbon tippet. The fish aren’t particularly leader shy and the flies were generally extra large caddis or mayfly imitations. A long leader would assist a drag-free drift which was vital for success.




"Summary"

The Russian heartland with its rugged beauty was a truly memorable experience. Although the tough camping conditions and technical wading and hiking may not be for everyone, hard-core flyfishermen will thrive with the endless opportunities at casting dry flies at large brown trout. The stunning sunsets, abundance of trout willing to rise to a dry and the absolute solitude of being literally in the middle of nowhere has left a lasting impression of the great Russian Rivers.




For more info contact Jean Pierre Lombard : Jp.mexel@gmail.com




Saturday, June 9, 2012

Tigerfishing in South Africa - Jozini


Flyfishing for Tigerfish on Lake Jozini




When Marc Courtiade and myself received the invite to target the fabled Tigerfish at Jozini dam with Mavungana Flyfishing, we leaped at the opportunity. I had accompanied Jonathan Boulton on two previous occasions to the massive lake, both trips consisted of exiting sight fishing for the striped water dogs on fly. As it happens, Marc and I are both fly fishing enthusiasts and we are both Pilots, so we decided to fly down in a little Cessna 172. The airstrip was short (840m) but doable as we were only two on board with a ton of Flyfishing equipment. After a very enjoyable and very scenic two hour flight, Marc greased the landing at Pongola airstrip and we were off to the lodge.


Lake Jozini fishes best just after the colder winter months, when the water starts to warm up and baitfish become more active. When the Spring and Summer rains discolour the water again, the fly fishing slows down, the window of opportunity is relatively small and it is over this period that Mavungana Flyfishing books out the venue for the best shot at getting those magical double figure Tigerfish right here in South Africa.





The Tigers are actively feeding on the local red-breast Tilapia around this time, and they can be seen cruising the shallows, attempting to flush out the hapless baitfish. Excellent sight fishing can be had in and around the shallows, with takes just sub-surface not uncommon, watching a massive Tigerfish swirl on your fly multiple times during the retrieve is enough to stir the adrenaline and weaken the knees of any man.






Gear selection is relatively straightforward, with 7-9wt rods being ideal, coupled with a decent reel that won’t explode if a blistering run is made and two decent fly lines. A tropical floating line with a ghost tip or a slow intermediate (The clear tropical ones are great) and a full sinking or 300grain shooting head system for prospecting rock faces and deep channels with Clouser minnows. A word of warning though, an un-intended mid-air collision between a Clouser and fly-rod will end badly. A spare rod is recommended.




Leaders are simple, straight 15-25lb maxima tied directly from the flyline to a piece of wire. (25-30lb piano wire is perfect) A perfection loop connecting the Flyline to the leader is ideal. A nonslip "Jozini Wire Knot" for the leader to wire is one of our favorite. the advantage of this knot is that the wire, which could cut through the mono if sufficient tension is created, now rests against x2 mono loops lying at a 90' angle. Your wire needs to be around 4-5 Inches long, some prefer a shorter section, but we have had tigers (especially the larger specimens) that have eaten the fly properly and chewed on the mono, not ideal if you want to land that trophy. The flies included in the Mavungana Flypack will sort you out for any eventuality on the water, all expertly tied by our resident fly-tyer on top quality, chemically sharpened hooks for maximum penetration.


The accommodation that Mavungana organizes is always exceptional, air-conditioned chalets with a lovely view built on wooden ‘stilts.’ Often, a herd of Nyala will graze around and under your chalet, and game-viewing can be done just by looking out your window. Many fly-fishermen elect to take along their better halves, facilitated by a pool, heated Jacuzzi and a basic day-spa, the ladies will be content all day. Game-walks, drives and boat rides can also be arranged, with sightings of Elephant, Rhino, Buffalo, Hippos and Crocs virtually guaranteed.


 

The catering is amazing, with a buffet breakfast in the morning that has everything you could possibly want in a breakfast including freshly baked muffins, bacon, cereals and fruit. The evening meals are always exquisite, often a large braai area is arranged so that everyone can socialize and chat about the day's fishing. It's an early start and getting on the water at the crack of dawn makes for some spectacular sunrises, where you could spot a fish eagle getting breakfast alongside some elephant and couple of buffalo while you wrestle in a Tigerfish. A difficult experience to beat!



The fishing is relaxed and is done off modified fly fishing skiffs with carpeted decks, anglers often fish barefoot to avoid stepping on the line. Accuracy is required and the ability to cast a long line into a target area reasonably well will improve you catch rate immensely. Practice with your 9 weight before you arrive. Drifts along likely looking banks and bays are setup so that both anglers can comfortably reach the fish, a breeze is always a blessing, as drift speed is vital to ensure you cover the good water effectively. A veteran guide will accompany you on the boat, the guides have fished the dam for years and will put you on the fish while offering friendly chatter and a vast knowledge of the abundant bird and wild life.


Water clarity ranges from discoloured at the river inlet, to reasonably clear with around 1m visibility further out into the main dam. The location of the Tigerfish is determined by a number of factors, including wind, water clarity and temperature. The general trend is during midday, the Tigers patrol the abundant weed banks lining the shore. In the low light conditions in the morning and especially the late afternoon, they move into the shallow bays and flush out the baitfish. This can be some of the most spectacular shallow water Tigerfishing you will ever experience.



We had a situation on the very last morning where it was an absolute flat calm and we could see the Tigers foraging for baitfish on a very shallow (2-3ft) sandy bank. Every now and then an orange sickle fin would break the surface, giving us some tantalizing shots at the wary predators. After some frustrating follows and swirls on the fly, we saw some activity by a likely looking submerged log, after quietly paddling over, I made a long cast into the fray. Immediately the line was wrenched taut as a lovely 10lb Tigerfish engulfed the fly and made some spectacular jumps as cheers of triumph and some expletives were shouted. The fish was safely released and will fight another day.


As always, if you need any extra info about the venue or want to hear about packages available, feel free to contact me via email or on my cel.

Jp.mexel@gmail.com
072 621 8425




Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Spring Flyfishing for Stillwater Trout






Generally considered by many flyfishermen to be one of the most productive times of the year to target stillwater trout, spring is a welcome reprieve from the harsh winter mornings, where the flyfline would literally freeze onto the rod-guides.

After the snowfall in Dullstroom over the weekend, the temperatures have soared and warm balmy evenings with abundant hatches of Trico Mayflies have created the opportunity to sightfish to cruising trout.

Let's jump right into the tactics for effectively targeting stillwater trout in Spring. Firstly, the deeper areas of the larger lakes and dams retain heat over the evening period from the sunshine during the day. In the mornings, the heat rises and the entire column of water is uniform in temperature, this effectively means that once the winds that traditionally blow at this time of year arrives, the contents of the lake will be mixed. All the nutrients that settled in the deeper layers of the lake during the winter period mixes with the surface layers.

Normally fly fishermen regard windy conditions as a curse when on the water, but in actual fact the more windy the conditions during the initial phases of spring (August through October) the better the fishing is likely to be.

Imagine a cup of coffee and a teaspoon of sugar. The coffee being the water and the sugar being the oxygen, when the sugar is added to the coffee, it dissolves and becomes part of the coffee. Just as adding oxygen (21% concentration in the air) to water (1.5% Oxygen), it will diffuse into the water, increasing oxygen content. The act of stirring the coffee (Wind) will make the diffusion of sugar (Oxygen) much faster, hence reaching saturation levels more quickly.

This is good for the trout, as an increase in Oxygen levels mean an increase in aquatic weed growth, which in turn means more habitat for the trout's food sources, insects. A greater oxygen content in the water also make the trout more active and therefore easier to fool with a fly.

In Spring, the weeded shallows and the inlet channel are our main points of focus when targeting the actively feeding trout. As previously mentioned, there are four main factors to consider when looking for trout. They need security, food, adequate temperatures and sufficient oxygen content. Through the process of photosynthesis, weedbeds 'create' oxygen. Conveniently, they also provide Ambush structure, security and food for our piscatorial prey.

Effectively fishing weedbeds in the shallows is most easily done with a Floating line, which incidentally is a brilliant all-purpose line to target trout at any depth. A team of flies is very effective, allowing the fly fisherman to imitate a variety of the possible insects that may be hatching or active at the time. A long leader is always important when fishing the shallows, as the trout are more wary.


There are a number of changes on the aquatic menu in Spring. Dragon and Damselflies become more active as the temperature increases. Mass migrations of the damselflies in particular to the shore-line to hatch make catching trout that are selectively feeding on them a challenge. Presentation of the pattern is absolutely crucial catch the trout during this time. (Usually midday on warm days) The natural damselflies swim very much like a minnow, using their delicate tails as propulsion. No aquatic insect in existence can swim in 2 feet strips of the fly-line. A very slow, figure of 8 retrieve works best, with long pauses in-between, occasional twitches will attract the trout. Tom Sutcliffe, a widely regarded authority in the fly fishing sport, believes that damselfly patterns (Red Eyed Damsels etc) should be tied with no weight, and fished with a long leader coupled with a floating line.










Incidentally, another very effective method to fish for trout in shallow water, is to stand on the windward bank (wind blowing towards you) and fish the ruffled water over the shallows. Harsh sunlight will force the trout deeper, when the wind breaks up the surface, the trout could stay in the shallows throughout the day. There is also less chance of spooking the trout as their vision is distorted by the ripples. Cast directly into the wind with a floating line and long leader, then simply keep tension as the wind blows your line back toward you. The ripples will give a fly tied with marabou or CDC (Red Eyed Damsel and CDC emerger respectively) an irresistible action.

There is so much information on all of the different tactics and techniques to use in Spring, that there have been entire books dedicated to the subject, following is a short but to the point nuts and bolts guide to catching more trout in spring.

Floating and intermediate lines with 9ft leaders and varying lengths of tippet, relevant to the application. A longer tipped (5-9ft) with the floating line and a shorter length for the intermediate line.

Fluorocarbon is an advantage in shallow, clear water as the refractive index is closer to that of water, making it less visible to trout. A selection of 5-8lb tippet will be fine.

5wt rods are completely adequate for most situations, casting the full fly-line is not as important as an accurate, delicate presentation for rising or cruising trout. Line colour is debatable, I prefer a brightly coloured line (orange) for easier strike detection, the long leader makes the use of camo lines optional.

Flies selection will be mainly light tan colours to dark olive. A good selection of dry flies include the D.D.D, Humpy, Adam's parachute and a generic hopper pattern tied with foam.

Nymphs can include the Red Eyed Damsel, the Papa Roach (A very effective dragonfly pattern developed by Herman Botes), a generic mayfly imitation, such as a G.H.R.E or a PTN, and the humble brassie.

Streamer patterns can be anything from Wooly Buggers (A generic pattern that doesn't imitate anything in particular, it imitates everything) to Zonker minnows (Grizzly and Olive in Colour).

We usually use two flies in conjunction. A (#8-#12) Wooly Bugger or Dragonfly attached to the tippet with a normal clinch knot, coupled with a small (#14-#18) nymph, something like a G.H.R.E or brassie tied directly onto the shank of the larger fly, also with a clinch knot.

Focus your efforts around weedbeds and other structure, a clearly defined inlet channel with weeds adjacent to it is a really effective area to fish. Plan your casts, don't flog the water to death, check the margins, see what is hatching and if possible, hold off fishing for a few minutes and check if you can see movement on the surface. Sight fishing to cruising fish is a real treat, lead the fish by few meters, let the flies settle and begin a steady retrieve on the surface. If you see the fish following the flies, do not stop retrieving, keep retrieving until you feel weight on the line and lightly lift your rod. Takes in shallow water are normally very positive.


Something else to take into consideration, the trout are cruising the margins, although wading can be effective, fish the margins well before missioning off into the water. Remember to fish smart, watching your casting, you don't want to spook trout by slapping the water on your forward cast. Check your flies regularly to make sure they are not fouled by weed.

When the following situation happens to you, and it will, eventually, keep an 'emergency supply' of small, unweighted White Death flies handy. 'Activity will be everywhere, the water is bubbling with rising trout, thick hatches of Trico Mayflies (the tiny ones) fill the banks in clouds of white. Everything has been tried, and tried again. Frustration reigns. This is one of the only times in South Africa where a trout will be selectively feeding on a single, miniscule pattern that is viciously hard to imitate. Fish the white death with a long leader and a floating line, strip it back slowly, with 3-4 inch strips just below the surface. Many theories have arised as to why this works but it does, and that is what's important.

To conclude, spring flyfishing is one of those magical times of the year for us Trout fishermen, our quarry is ready and willing, hungry after a long winter and active because of the oxygen in the water. Read the water, apply the tactics and you will be rewarded.










Saturday, July 2, 2011

Nile Perch - Egypt

The mighty Nile Perch of Egypt has always been one of those almost mystical fish that every angler puts on his bucket list. Yet it is the remoteness of their habitat that has shrouded these fish in mystery.



Recently, Mavungana Flyfishing have taken a couple of fortunate souls into the depths of the Saharan Desert to fish for these monster Perch on Lake Nasser, the largest man-made lake on the planet.


It is strange to think, while getting of the air conditioned plane at Aswan airport and wondering how you will survive the next seven days as the furnace of hot air hits you square in the face, that just a short drive out of the city and through the sun-beaten desert, a massive lake spanning 550km awaits.


As we boarded the Nubian Queen, a houseboat which was to be our mobile home for the next week, we were struck by the Nubian people, children smiling and playing in the scorching heat and the friendliness of the locals. Several times I refused a cigarette, offered by a person who has so little, yet is so willing to share what he does have with a smile.


The vastness of the lake only hit us once we were cruising along on the topaz clear lake. As you look into the horizon and see the endless dam stretching into the distance, the reality of your destination kicks in.

Sam, our cook, was a friendly chap who also specialized in giving massages and entertaining us with stories of his hometown in Aswan, where they keep crocodiles as pets for tourist attractions. The talk quickly turned to the possibilities of hooking into the beastly Perch we had set out to persue. Fly Selection, tactics and stories of the monsters on previous trips had us all exited to hit the water. One particular story, recounted by Ahmed, one of the Nubian guides, told of two Nile Perch hunting down a massive Tigerfish. When asked about the size of the Perch, he replied, "They were same long as for me," while gesturing with his hands for effect.

No time was wasted as we approached our first campsite for the afternoon. It's quite a sight to see the massive houseboat towing three 'stealth' aluminum fishing boats, closely followed by three, 24ft fishing boats which have the dual purpose of comfortable trolling platforms for the conventional fishermen, and sleeping platforms.

The first session was a serious learning curve. This is unlike any fly fishing you ever done, period. The Perch behave very much like our Large mouth Bass, in that they are structure orientated and are in every sense of the word, ambush predators. Underwater 'caves' and overhangs formed by erosion and currents seem to be their preferred ambush spots. As the lake is literally the Nile valley that has been flooded, only the tips of mountains remain above the surface, creating a series of small islands.





Fly fishing for these fish involve accurate, short-range, smart fishing with a three dimensional outlook required to effectively cover the strike zones. They will ambush the fly as it swims past the overhang, this often involves near vertical retrieves, with erratic twitches of the fly to convince the perch and invoke the take. In typical bass fashion, the fish fight dirty and at close quarters, with the perch attempting to head for deeper water and may snag you in the rocks if you don't horse it out of cover, although this is easier said than done when you are attached to a fish the size of a Victorian bathtub.




The Nile Perch grow to an excess of 400lbs and can reach lengths of 2 meters. The Nile Tigerfish are also prevalent in the lake, these toothy critters are known to grow to around 15lbs. The average perch caught ranged from five to twenty pounds, although larger ones were hooked.

One of the anglers hooked a good sized perch (7lbs) and as he was fighting it, a huge Perch, estimated at 150lbs abruptly inhaled the terrified fish, needless to say it was a short story. Another incident occurred one memorable afternoon while working a classic 'fishy' spot, comprising of a deep channel with two adjacent weeded banks, my fly was inhaled by a Perch which the guide estimated at over 100lbs, I was ripped into the backing faster than any fish before, the monster tail walked several times and managed to wrap itself around seperate rocks. The backing knot eventually got snagged and the 75lb braid core fly-line broke, after several very colourful expletives, a new appreciation for the strength of these fish and a severely bruised ego, I trudged back to lunch to share my war-story.

The food is tasty, but this is not a culinary experience, with a traditional Nubian twist that will amaze you at the range of ways that a simple rice dish can be prepared. The ice-cold local beer is very good and refreshing after a long day in the sun. After dinner, stories are exchanged and 'fines' are issued, usually for botched attempts at navigating a particularly sharp piece of sand-stone, or losing a large fish. After the fifth vodka shot for the evening, you very quickly learn that terminal tackle needs to be immaculate, you don't have many shots at big fish, so when you finally hook into a monster Perch, equipment
failure needs to be the last thing on your mind.





Temperatures hover around bloody hot and 'moer warm.' Often, it reaches into the 40s and plenty of sunscreen is mandatory. The fishing involves navigating sharp sandstone rocks, high ledges and cliffs. Sporadic immersion of the entire body is done often to keep cool, after a good lookout for Crocs. Distance casting is not a requirement, but accuracy will help to fish the cover well. Lots of walking will be done to cover as much good water as possible, so you need to consider yourself fit and mobile. Sight fishing is a definite possibility, twice we came across a couple of large perch holding over a ledge. Stealth and accuracy come in again, leading the fish before starting an erratic retrieve, then speeding up as the fish follows the fly may lead to a hookup. There is no feeling that matches the nerves as a giant Nile Perch races to intercept your fly.



Evenings are warm, pleasantly so when the wind dies down. A cold shower (trust me it's a blessing in the heat) is aboard the mother ship, along with a flush toilet. Sleeping on the roof of the fishing boats under the stars is an experience in itself, I was rather alarmed at the lack of noise the first night. The desert is dead quiet, a pressing silence that adds to the remoteness and tranquility.



A tour of the Great pyramids is included, and it is not to be missed. Cairo is a city that needs to be experienced, the bustling streets are full of vendors selling gifts and souvenirs. Authentic paintings on papyrus can be purchased, along with freshly woven Egyptian carpets and hand-made jewelery. You can also ride a camel and get a feel for Egypt, with the security of an American Express guide.

Seriously important things to pack:

- Sturdy 10wt rod with a spare, 12 wt if you can cast it all day and a 5-6wt for the huge Tilapia.

- 400grain (10wt) shooting head fly line, bring a spare. 500grain for a 12 wt should you choose to bring one.

- Stripping/sun gloves, takes are brutal and line-burn can cause serious pain. The extra sun protection will save the back of your hands.

- Good quality, quick drying technical clothing. Invest in two proper long sleeved shirts and two technical pants, the zip-off variety is nice for versatility.

- Pliers for removing hooks from fish.

- A hook sharpener (important), you may hit a rock on your near-vertical back-cast. Razor sharp hooks will aid penetration.


- Good quality line clippers / scissors, we use anything from 40-80lb mono filament.

- A good quality reel, it does not need to hold 150m of backing, but it does need a decent drag system. Any good saltwater make will do.

- 40, 60 and 80lb tippet material. Maxima is reliable and strong, it's also relatively cheap.

- Bring along some deceiver style minnows, natural colours worked well because of the clear water, but the fly-pack that Mavungana provides contains every pattern you would need.

- A headlamp or flashlight is also highly recommended, and helped loads when navigating to your designated sleeping boat in the dark.

- A good pair of flats boots are also a must, an old pair of tekkies will also work, but they will take a beating on the sharp, hot rocks.

- Polaroid glasses, goes without saying, spotting fish along with saving your eyes from a very large, barbed hook. Always a no-brainer for any type of fishing, bring a cheapy spare.

- It never rains (ever) and there are no bugs, which makes the evenings so pleasant.

- A pair of swimming trunks and a small, lightweight absorbent towel.

- Superglue for impromptu fly repair and spare braided loops.















In total, we caught 144 Fish over the 7 days. The fish ranged from 5-20lbs. This really is an extreme fly fishing destination with the rugged beauty of the desert, mixed in with a dash of exhilaration and adventure. if you want any more info on trips, feel free to contact me on 072 621 8425 or Jp.mexel@gmail.com

Tuesday, May 10, 2011

Flyfishing Dullstroom - Private Syndicate

Having Fished all the Day Venues that Mavungana had to offer, Marc and I were invited to fish the Private Syndicate. It's situated 12km outside Dullstroom, a beautiful 6 Hectare, spring fed lake. The dam maintains a relatively constant level throughout the year. It is stocked with trophy trout and a local population of largemouth bass keep the trout well fed throughout the year, especially during the Autumn months when other aquatic insects become scarce. Research suggests that when trout grow in excess of 6-7lb, their diets adapt and around 70% of their diet comprises of small minnows. A large trout doesn't want to expend lots of energy eating tiny mayflies when an abundance of high-calorie bass fingerlings are basically served on a silver platter.


We found that large(#6-#8), olive and brown Mylar Zonkers worked exceptionally well, the trout smashed these bass imitations so hard that I eventually decided to use straight 12lb flourocarbon tippet after being repeatedly broken on the take as the fly was sinking through the inlet channel.


A large black and brown tungsten bead wooly bugger, combined with a #10 Papa Roach (Dragonfly Imitation) Fished with a New-Zealand style rig produced many fish in the shallows.
The visibility was around 2 feet, so patterns with a dark body for contrast, a thick hackle to push water and plenty of action produced the most trout. The tungsten-beaded Wooly Bugger with the marabou tail and a Pancora Wooly Bugger worked well. The wind and rain we encountered while fishing the Lake made it feel like fishing the Rio Grande in Argentina. It seemed though that as usual it was a case of 'the worse the weather, the better the fishing.' Casting with the wind into the inlet channel produced the largest fish, and the most savage strikes. A straight 10lb fluorocarbon tippet with an intermediate line is recommended. The channel is very deep, but only about 6 feet wide, be careful when wading across as, at some point, your feet will encounter an area devoid of structure and a swim in the icy waters will soon follow. Long casts down the channel with large Minnow and Dragonfly imitations seemed to grab the attention of the larger denizens of the Lake.


The evening rise on the Syndicate dam is incredible. Fish movement is scarce, but put an accurate cast about a meter infront of a boiling fish and you are guaranteed to connect to a sizable specimen. As darkness falls, a slow intermediate with two large, dark, unweighted flies stripped along the surface will produce some stunning takes. There are also a few Brown Trout around, which made a brief appearance while
Marc was fishing a dropoff with submerged tree structure. None of the trout caught were smaller than about 2lb, and the biggest was around 6lb, with many larger fish lost to the sheer strength of the Syndicate brutes.


When arriving at the dam, drive down to the wall and make a walk down the water's edge, past the gravel banks and all the way up the inlet, large swirls and boils will signify your arrival to the affectionately named ; Lunker bay. Submerged structure and a weeded inlet channel make this a surefire bet when fishing the lake for the first time. There are various smaller channels running through the weed, and a suitable Dragon or Damselfly imitation will rouse the interest of the Trout, and perhaps a bass or two.



Wading gear is highly recommended, and a float tube will be brilliant on the lake. I have always had my reservations about Syndicates. Some of them are merely glorified timeshare in an estate with a little stockie bashing thrown in, but the best of the Syndicates will blow you away with the sheer quality of the fish. The Mavungana Syndicate is most definitely the latter. For R2900 per year, you have unlimited access to the lake, 10% off anything in either of Mavungana's stores, and you can bring a mate to fish the lake at no charge.



Marc and I fished this lake in one of the busiest times of the year, over the Easter Weekend. Dullstroom was pumping with tourists and flyfishermen, yet we saw only one other Syndicate member and his mate fish the huge lake all Easter. For R240 per month, you get access to some of the very best stillwater trout fishing available around Dullstroom. The lake also has a very 'wild' feel to it, untrimmed grass with a massive lake, drop-offs, and endless structure makes the dam challenging and very rewarding to fish. Too many of the day fisheries have become too 'commercialized,' it's nice once in a while to fish a Lake that doesn't have perfectly trimmed hedges with white picket fences.


When fishing the lake, only barbless hooks with soft mesh nets are allowed. CAR is mandatory for Brown Trout, and most of the clients fishing the Syndicate advocate the use of Catch and Release for Rainbows. Syndicate members are presented with their own, numbered key for the gate, and are free to come and go as they please.

For more info on becoming a member of the Mavungana Syndicate Waters, contact the Dullstroom Store at 013 - 254 - 0270



Thursday, April 28, 2011

Autumn Trout Fishing - Dullstroom


As the Yellowfishing season abates, the Trout fly fishing in South Africa is picking up. This is the beauty of Flyfishing. There is a species for every season, hence our finned quarry is always willing.

Recently Mark Courtiade and myself were invited down to Dullstroom to fish all the waters that Mavungana Flyfishing has to offer.

To avoid traffic from Johannesburg on Good Friday, we departed at 4:30 am into the fog. At 8:00 am we arrived and were familiarized with all the aspects of the Mavungana Dullstroom shop. We were supplied with a hot cup of filter coffee by Rose, the local Fly-tyer and entertained by the eccentric stories of Jim, the local Scotsman, characteristically smoking his pipe.

Once we had acquainted ourselves with the shop and set up a couple of starter kit combos, tactics, advice and opinions from the very competent staff in the shop was exchanged and we were ready to fish the waters, we rigged up our 5wt rods and set out into the fog.

Our first destination was a farm 7km's out of Dullstroom called La Verpa, consisting of 3 well stocked dams, crystal clear waters with amazing structure and is entirely catch and release. The fog was so thick that we missed the turnoff in the poor visibility: perfect weather for trout fishing.

La Verpa
Upon arrival, my companion and I were bursting for some Fly Fishing action. As we walked closer to the middle dam, we were greeted with an unbelievable scene: Trout were rising everywhere, a hatch of midges was in full swing, and we could barely see the other side of the 1ha dams.

We rigged up with floating lines, long leaders and fly patterns that had months before been carefully tied in preparation for the time we could get back onto the water again.

The trout were cruising in water less than a foot in depth, sipping midge emergers just below the surface. Carefully sneaking up to the edge of the water, I made a short cast into the small bay, along the margin to intercept a feeding trout.

I had opted for 3 fly rig, consisting of a #8, hopper-like pattern; tied with a uni-bobber: a tiny plastic ball with an air pocket inside tied directly on to the hook. This makes your terrestrial pattern practically unsinkable. Using an adapted New-Zealand style rig: a 4 ft length of 5lb
fluorocarbon tippet is tied to a #16 Epoxy buzzer: a versatile midge pattern that is deadly in clear water. I attached another 4ft of tippet with a #16 San Juan worm, a "blood worm" imitation that can fool even the largest trophy trout.

(Picture - Tripple Fly Rig)

Mark had opted to fish along the margins of the dam wall with an old favorite, the Red Eyed Damsel suspended under a large, bushy looking D.D.D that he used as an indicator. A triumphant shout of "Inside!" Was the indication that the first trout of the day had been hooked. The footage below shows the weather conditions like as he was landing his trout.

A well conditioned trout of around 2lb was landed and carefully released, barb less hooks are always a good idea, less surface area means better penetration into the mouth of the fish, and are much easier to remove from an earlobe, it also damages the fish less when the hooks are barb less, a barb with "drill" a hole into the trout's soft mouth as it fights, and eventually, if the fight is long enough, the hole could lead to the hook popping out.

A trout that had been patrolling the margins was feeding in a straight line along the bank, sipping the hapless emergers out of the surface film, a short cast presented the flies about 5 feet ahead of the trout and on queue, it confidently ate the Epoxy midge and pulled the hopper under. A short fight ensued, it was hooked in the corner of the mouth, and the pretty little rainbow was released and swam off strongly. We found that the trout are incredibly strong and vital at this time of year, the temperature is in their optimum range and the recent rain has oxygenated the water nicely.

We decided to prospect the lower dam, known for its trophy trout. The water on the lower dam seemed even clearer than the middle dam, by now a stiff breeze was blowing, we could see trout rising in the wind line, where the ripple meets flat water.

Trout love structure. physical elements like weed beds, reeds, channels and submerged tree stumps. Transitional structure like shade from clouds, wind and discoloured water also play a large role in trout movement and location during the day.

We could see that there was still some dragon and damselflies active in the margins. I opted for a floating line with a 14ft leader, 6lb fluorocarbon tippet and a dual fly rig consisting of a #8 Papa Roach, a brilliant dragonfly imitation with plenty of 'triggers' such as the large, black plastic eyes, rubber legs, a zonker strip, and a "heart" of holo dubbing which can pull trout in from a distance. Attached to the Papa Roach was a 6ft section of 5lb flourocarbon with a #16 Olive Gold Ribbed Hares Ear (G.R.H.E) A great generic mayfly nymph imitation.

A long cast with the wind helped to unfurl the long leader and the flies landed on the wind line. Almost instantly the Papa Roach was engulfed before it could sink below the surface. A powerful run into the backing with multiple jumps enforced the theory of the energized trout in the foul weather. A beautiful Rainbow Trout of 5lb was landed and revived before swimming away strongly in the icy, crystal clear water.


Six more Rainbows followed the first, all of them eating the Papa Roach, Mark was having similar success on a Pancora Wooly Bugger, a fly specially designed to bring out the aggression of trout. A slow, jerky hand twist retrieve seemed to be the order of the day, they were smashing the Roach as it approached the wind line.

The fog was still thick and a light drizzle, combined with the wind made the weather pretty crappy, but it seems the worse the weather, the better the fishing. If the barometric pressure remains stable, good fishing can be had in all weather. One exception is lightning, walking around with a 9ft long graphite conductor in your hand is not advisable, if you are caught in a lightning storm, drop your rod and get to safety.

La Verpa is a brilliant fly fishing destination, floating lines with long leaders (9-18ft) is advisable, along with small nymphs and a slow hand-twist retrieve should get you into some lively rainbows in the clear water. The rates are R150 per angler for a full day, dawn till dusk. Strictly catch and release, bookings can be made at Mavungana Flyfishing in Dullstroom.


The shop in Dullstroom - 013 254 0270